Tulsa gutter companies: how to choose one

About this guide

This site is a free, independent guide for Tulsa-area homeowners who have a gutter question: a drip at a corner, a run the ice pulled loose, a hail claim, or a quote that seems high. It is not a gutter company. Nobody here climbs a ladder, sells a guard or writes a quote. The pages describe the problems that come up most often on houses in this metro, the typical price ranges for fixing them, and the questions worth asking before you sign anything. If you call or send a request through the site, it is passed to an independent local contractor partner. That contractor inspects the house, prepares the written estimate and does any work you choose to hire them for. There is never an obligation to go ahead, and every price on these pages is a typical range for the area, not a quote for your house.

Three things that separate good local gutter companies

An inspection before a price. A number given from the curb is a guess. A careful estimator goes up the ladder at the corners, presses a screwdriver into the board behind the gutter, and follows every downspout to where it drains. On a 1960s midtown ranch those two checks — soft fascia and water dumping at the slab — are what move the price. Ask up front how hidden rot will be handled, and ask to see it before any price changes.

Work built for this climate. Spring storms that drop an inch or more in an hour, pecans and oaks that fill a gutter in November, an ice storm every few winters. In practice that means .032 aluminum on hidden screw hangers, 3x4 downspouts, 6-inch gutter on the roof planes that need it, and extensions that carry water off the clay. A builder-grade system is usually spikes, 2x3 downspouts and nothing at the bottom.

Honesty about small jobs. When a $250 reseal is the fix, a good gutter company in Tulsa says so and does not pitch a new system. When the gutters still have years left, or the trees do not justify guards, that is part of a straight answer too.

Licensing, registration and insurance

Oklahoma's Construction Industries Board registers roofing contractors; gutter-only work generally isn't covered by that registration, and local rules vary — check with the CIB and your city. Either way, ask any contractor for liability and workers' comp certificates sent from their agent. Check that the business name and the dates on those certificates match the company whose people will be on your ladder.

Storm season brings out-of-town crews knocking on doors for weeks after a big hail event. The Oklahoma Insurance Department publishes plain-language guidance on hiring contractors after a storm, and it is worth reading before you sign. Only a licensed public adjuster can negotiate a claim on a homeowner's behalf in Oklahoma; if a contractor offers to do it, check with the Oklahoma Insurance Department.

A checklist for any gutter contractor in Tulsa

Plenty of gutter contractors work this metro, and the same checklist applies to all of them. Expect:

• A written, itemized estimate listing gutter size and metal thickness, the hanger type and spacing, how many downspouts and what size, fascia priced per foot, guards priced per foot, extensions and removal of the old system.
• Certificates of insurance that come straight from the contractor's insurance agent, before work starts.
• A look from the ladder at the fascia and at where each downspout drains, not just at the leak.
• Extensions on every downspout as part of the job.
• A water test before the crew packs up, and the workmanship terms on paper.
• No pressure to sign the same day, and no large deposit for a small repair.

Searching for the best gutter company? Tulsa has a number of good ones, and that checklist is how to tell them apart. Questions to ask a gutter contractor goes further, for anyone trying to find the best gutter company in Tulsa for a particular house.

Comparing two or three estimates

Line the estimates up side by side and check the same items on each one:

1. Footage and downspout count. Two contractors measuring the same house should land within a few feet. A big gap means one of them guessed.
2. Metal thickness. .032 holds up under ice and limbs better than .027. If an estimate does not say, ask.
3. Hangers. Type and spacing, including the north side, where ice sits longest.
4. Downspouts. Size, number, and where each one drains.
5. Fascia. Checked or not, and the price per foot if a board is soft.
6. What is left out. Haul-away, extensions, the water test and the warranty.

Once the lines match, the price difference is usually easy to explain, and the cheapest estimate is often the one with the thinnest metal and the fewest downspouts.

Questions to ask on the first call

• How soon could someone look at the house, and will they go up a ladder?
• Is the estimate free and in writing?
• How long does the written price hold?
• Do you do repairs as well as full replacements?
• Who will be doing the work, and who do I call if a corner leaks next spring?

Red flags

• A price that drops sharply the moment you hesitate
• A "today only" discount, or a demand for a big deposit before a date is set
• An offer to handle your insurance claim, negotiate with the adjuster, or cover or waive your deductible
• No written estimate, or one with a single total and no lines
• Pressure to add guards before anyone has looked at your trees

What this guide will not do

It will not tell you which company to hire, rank local businesses or publish reviews. It does not inspect houses, document storm damage or write claim scopes; for insurance questions, read your policy and talk to your agent. It does not quote prices for a specific house, because every roofline and every fascia board is different, and only someone on a ladder can price it. What it does is explain the work in plain language, so that when you read an estimate from anyone, you know what each line means and which questions to ask. If something on these pages turns out to be out of date, the typical ranges and the advice to check with the CIB, your city and your agent still apply.

Other trades

Roofing, foundation repair and painting are separate trades. If someone working on the gutters notices a roof issue from the ladder — no drip edge, or shingles ending short of the gutter — they should point it out so you can have a registered roofer look at it. Be cautious with anyone who asks you to sign over your insurance claim or offers to cover or waive your deductible.

Areas this guide covers

Tulsa County plus the near parts of Rogers, Wagoner and Creek counties: midtown, downtown and Brookside, south Tulsa to 121st, north and east Tulsa, Sand Springs and Sapulpa to the west, Broken Arrow, Coweta and Catoosa to the east, Owasso and Claremore to the north, Bixby, Jenks and Glenpool along the river to the south. The Broken Arrow and Jenks guides describe what is typical in those suburbs, and the cost page lists this year's typical ranges.

To ask for a written estimate from the independent contractor partner, call, text or use the request form. The estimate is free, and you are under no obligation to hire.

How estimate requests are handled

Calls and requests through this site are handled by an independent local gutter contractor we work with in Tulsa, who provides the written quote and performs the work. Prices on the site are typical Tulsa ranges, not a quote.