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Gutters and Solar Panels: What to Fix Before the Array Goes On

Gutters and solar panels meet at the one spot on the roof nobody on a solar job is really responsible for: the eave. Rooftop solar is showing up on Tulsa roofs at a steady clip now — south-facing slopes in Broken Arrow, Owasso and Bixby especially, where the newer houses have the big uninterrupted roof planes that installers like. The panels are the solar installer's business. What happens at the edge of the roof, where the water comes off the array and into the gutter, is the gutter contractor's part, and it is where a solar job that was done well on the roof can go wrong at the eave.

How gutters and solar panels interact

A shingle roof sheds rain across its whole surface, and it arrives at the gutter evenly along the run. Panels change that in three ways.

They concentrate the flow. Water sheets off the bottom edge of the array as a curtain, and in a Tulsa spring storm that curtain can be an inch-an-hour's worth of an entire roof plane landing on a few feet of gutter at once. If the array's lower edge lines up with a short section of gutter, or worse with a corner, that section overflows while the rest of the run is fine.

They can overshoot. The bottom row of panels usually sits a few inches above the shingles on rails. Water coming off the panel face at speed can clear the front lip of a 5-inch gutter, especially where the panels end within a foot or two of the eave. The tell is a wet stripe on the ground under the array edge and a dry stripe under the rest of the roof.

They keep the roof under them cold. A panel shades the shingles beneath it, so in an ice event the roof under the array stays frozen after the rest has melted. Meltwater from above runs down under the panels, refreezes, and you get ice at the eave below panels — a small ice dam exactly where the array ends. It is the one place a Tulsa roof gets a proper ice dam without an attic problem.

What to do before the panels go on

Solar installers in Oklahoma are busy, and they are not gutter people. The order that works is roof, gutters, then panels, and the gutter part is worth doing right because access gets harder afterward.

  1. Fix everything now. Sagging runs, leaking corners, soft fascia. Once the array is up, a ladder cannot rest against the roof edge below it in the normal way, and every repair under the panels costs more.
  2. Upsize the run under the array. If the array drains onto a 5-inch gutter with a 2x3 downspout, it is going to overflow. A 6-inch gutter with 3x4 downspouts on that side, or at least an added downspout below the array's low corner, is the fix. Why gutters overflow in Tulsa rain has the roof-area math.
  3. Check the drip edge. The solar rails are lagged into the rafters through the shingles, and the crew will be walking that eave. Make sure the drip edge overlaps the back of the gutter, so water does not run behind it when the roof is being worked on.
  4. Put guards on if you are going to. Micro-mesh guards under an array are the sensible choice, because the gutter under the panels is the one nobody wants to clean by hand later. Screens are fine if the trees are light.
  5. Get the panel layout. Ask the installer where the array's low edge lands relative to the gutter, and whether they plan a gap of at least 12 inches between the bottom of the panels and the eave. That gap is what stops overshoot and lets a ladder standoff sit on the roof.

Cleaning gutters under solar panels

Cleaning gutters under solar panels is done from a ladder with a standoff on the roof edge below the panels, working sideways, or from the ground with tongs and a hose. It is slower and it costs a little more: expect the upper end of the gutter cleaning range, $200–$300 on a two-story. Nobody should be walking on the panels or leaning a ladder on a rail. If the array runs right to the eave with no gap, cleaning is close to impossible and guards are the only practical answer.

Critters, leaves and the gap under the array

The space between the panels and the shingles is a sheltered, warm shelf, and squirrels, pigeons and leaves all find it. Leaves that blow under the array wash down into the gutter below in the next rain, and nesting material does the same. A solar panel critter guard — a mesh skirt clipped around the edge of the array — keeps animals and most debris out from underneath. If you are adding one, ask that it be fitted so it does not sit in or on the gutter, and that the gutter below is cleaned before it goes on.

Wiring and the gutter

Conduit from the array usually runs down the roof to a junction box, then down the wall. It should not run through the gutter, and it should not share a downspout strap. Both happen. A conduit clamped to the fascia above the gutter is fine as long as the hangers clear it; tell whoever works on the gutters that it is there.

PSO and the meter side

Tulsa homes on PSO, Public Service Company of Oklahoma, interconnect through the utility's process — your installer or PSO can explain the steps — and the inverter and disconnect usually end up on the wall near the meter. That wall is often the one with a downspout on it. Make sure the downspout does not discharge on or near the equipment, and if it has to be moved, that is a $120–$220 downspout repair and better done before the electrician mounts anything.

Common questions

Can gutters be cleaned with solar panels on the roof?

Yes, as long as there is a gap between the bottom row of panels and the eave. The work is done from a ladder with a standoff resting on the roof edge, or from the ground with tongs and a hose, and it takes longer than a normal cleaning. If the array runs right to the edge, micro-mesh guards are the realistic option.

Do solar panels make gutters overflow?

They can. An array gathers the rain from a large part of a roof plane and drops it off its lower edge as a sheet, so the gutter section below it takes more water at once than it did before. A bigger gutter on that run, larger downspouts, or an extra downspout near the array's low corner usually solves it.

Who is responsible for the gutters on a solar install?

That depends on your contract, so read it before work starts and ask the solar installer directly. Solar contracts vary in what they cover, and the gutters are often not mentioned at all. If the gutters need work, it is simpler to have a gutter contractor do it before the panels go on.

Questions to ask the solar installer

Most of the trouble at the eave comes from things nobody asked about before the contract was signed. Five questions cover it:

  • Where will the lowest row of panels sit, and how many inches of open roof will be left above the eave?
  • Will the crew lean ladders on the gutter or walk the edge, and who pays to straighten a run that gets bent during the install?
  • Which way will the conduit run, and will it cross the fascia, a hanger or a downspout strap?
  • Is a critter guard part of the job, and how is it fastened so that it stays clear of the trough?
  • If the panels ever have to come off for a re-roof, who handles the gutters during that work?

Get the answers in writing, alongside the panel layout drawing.

Mistakes that show up a year later

The common ones are small. A downspout left where the inverter now sits. A 5-inch run under a big array that was never upsized. A ladder dent in the front lip that turned into a low spot holding water. Leaves packed under the panels that nobody saw until the first heavy storm pushed them into the trough. Each is cheap to prevent and annoying to fix once the panels are in the way.

The short version

Gutters before panels. Bigger gutter under the array. Twelve inches of gap at the eave. Guards on the run you will not be able to reach. It adds a few hundred dollars to a solar project that costs twenty thousand, and it is the part that keeps the water off the foundation. The installation page covers sizing; the cost page has the per-foot ranges.

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